Sunday, December 2, 2012

Recording the Guitar Direct - Part 1

 

Tales_of_the_tape_Part-1


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The direct guitar sound needs major EQ help most of the time since the mixer path is not voiced for this application, whereas a guitar amp is. What I am saying is guitar amps are designed with a tone circuit that is friendly regarding the guitar pickups tone.

 

JDI-xlarge Direct Box 01

The direct box is used for changing the guitar high impedance signal (could be around 100,000 ohms) to low impedance (150 to around 600 ohms). Something to remember is that a low impedance source can plug into a high impedance input but not the other way around, unless run through a direct box.

 

JDI-xlarge Direct Box 02

There are three basic direct box designs. The old style would be a transformer type (passive electronics). The next design to follow was an active electronic circuit using an op amp and without a transformer. There are also hybrids using both a transformer and active electronics. The third is a tube design. OK, in this era, there are also other designs, such as a channel strip concept that has direct box electronics and everything you would find on a mixer module. If you're using that, basically everything is the same regarding the direct box stuff. More on this in the next article.

 

ProRMP-xlarge Direct Box 01

The passive transformer circuit usually sounds dark and mushy, meaning soft and no punch. Note that the quality of the transformer makes a big difference. The Jenson servo transformer is said to sound good.

But I prefer the active direct box style since it is typically more punchy than the transformer type. Tube units will surely be warmer sounding compared to the solid state op amp style. Dig, all these have a specific sound and should be used per application.

 

ProRMP-xlarge Direct Box 02

The typical direct box has a 1/4-inch female input jack and typically two outputs. One output would be the low impedance output using an XLR connector to route to the mixer input. The other output would be a mult of the input jack (a duplicate of the signal) using a 1/4-inch female jack to be plugged into a guitar amp. A ground switch may also be included on the box. The reason for the ground switch is to eliminate ground hum. When using the direct box, if it has a ground switch, always flip the switch to see which position has less hum.

 

ProAV2-xlarge Direct Box 01

The direct box typically sends out a signal that is mic level (around 20 dB). In this case, the direct box output would be plugged into a mixer modules mic input. Some direct boxes off a line-level output. In this case, the direct box would be plugged into a mixer modules line input. (Note on some mixers, both the mic and line input are the same with both using the input trim pot to set to the proper level.)

ProAV2-xlarge Direct Box 02   ProAV2-xlarge Direct Box 03   ProAV2-xlarge Direct Box 04

If the direct box is active (a circuit that uses op amps) it will either be powered by a battery or may have the option to be powered by a mixer that has phantom power (48 volts). If your mixer has phantom power (that is sent through the audio cable), use the phantom power mode to avoid a battery failing during recording.

ProD2-xlarge Direct Box 01

Some guitars have active electronics that put out a hotter signal. If they do, I hope they offer a low impedance output to avoid having to use a direct box. If not, they may overload the direct box input circuitry if the guitar volume is set to full or near full volume. Keep this in mind.

 

ProD2-xlarge Direct Box 03

Another thing to consider is where the guitar player will set the output level on the guitar. Unless the guitar player needs to make level changes on the guitar during the song, its always best to have the guitar volume set to full up. If the guitar volume is lower than full up, the resistance factor within the guitar output pot would change the tone, making the sound darker.

 

ProD2-xlarge Direct Box 02

(Yes, as I mentioned above, if the guitar has active electronics and needs to run through the direct box, the guitar volume might need to be lower than full up to avoid distortion.)

 


More to Consider

The considerations continue. Review this and the following paragraph when setting up the mixer/recorder path!!! If the guitar has "active electronics," the tone control(s) may have a wide range of tonal possibilities. Options may be bass, mid and treble. If the active EQ is included on the electric guitar, before EQing at the mixer, and if you are not the guitar player, work with the guitar player regarding EQ settings to get the best EQ on the guitar before EQing on the mixer.

Note if the electric guitar instrument has active EQ, this may be good and bad. If the active EQ circuit is noisy, set the EQ settings to "flat" (typically there will be "detent" positions on the pots). If the EQ circuit has a bypass switch, bypass the EQ. If you like the EQ settings the guitar player comes up with, and if there are markers on the guitar instrument EQ pots, ask what the settings are and write them down on the track sheet in the comments section, just in case the settings are moved. If there are no number markers on the tone pots, use Scotch tape or any tape and tape down the pots so they will not move. You may think this is silly but the pots may easily get moved by accident during the recording session.

Plugging Into the Direct Box

Note this article is not including a guitar amp but just recording the guitar direct. We will add the amp into the chain after the next article. (And all of this information relates to bass guitar as well.)

My Gibson Les Paul Gold Top Deluxe & Mesa Boogie Mark V Combo amp 

Gibson Les Paul Gold Top guitar and the Mesa Boogie Mark V Combo amplifier


TASCAM 2488 005  TASCAM 2488 003

Tascam 2488neo Digital Portastudio


OK, plug the guitar into the direct box and plug the direct box output into the mixer via options mentioned in the next paragraph:

Anchoring Down Cable from the Direct Box to the Mixer

OK, you now have the direct box plugged into the mixer so its time to do some safety work. We do not want someone tripping on the cable and ruining the take, or hurting their precious little head (though if its the drummer, it probably wouldn't hurt anything important ouch!) (Note that most of the last sentence was contributed by our brilliant editor who has just proven he is very funny).

If a wood floor, duct tape the cable a foot away from the direct box to the studio mic-input panel, or recording console mic input, or to the A to D converter box (computer based digital recorder). The best way is to cover all the cable with tape. Start taping down the cable a foot away from the direct box and duct tape all the way to the mic patch bay or mixer. There should be a very little amount of mic cable slack at the mic stand base. Since there will typically be cable slack at the other end, cable tie the slack in a circle after plugging into the mic input destination and tape this down, if someone could possibly trip over the mic cable slack.

If you are low on duct tape, cross the cable in one foot strips about every two or three feet. If you have very little duct tape, spread out the strips further. Artist tape or any thin easily ripped tape will not do the job. Keep the cable taped down tight, meaning no slack between spaced out tape strips. In the cabled areas where foot traffic will be heavy, do you best to cover the cable totally with duct tape.

If your studio has carpet, pass on duct tape (this leaves glue residue) and put something over the cable, such as throw rugs. Bathroom rugs seem to work in a pinch. Or get some carpet remnants and cut them up to suit your needs. If you use carpet on a wood floor, make sure that it wont move if someone walks across it. A rubber type bottom is a good idea in this situation.


Posted in:          www.Guitar.com
Instruments:     Guitar
Authors:            Jay Graydon
Artists:             Jay Graydon, Jay Graydon All Stars
Topics:              Performance, Recording
Channels:          Recording The Guitar, Columns

I’ll be back with Recording the Guitar Direct - Part II so stay tuned.  In the meantime, remember to “SUPPORT LIVE MUSIC” and hire a local band.  That will help keep all us musicians working.  As always . . . . .

“Keep the Blues Alive an Rock the Night Away”.


MUSICIAN by Night

 

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“Help Keep The Blues and Blues-Rock Alive”

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Changes In Store for My Effects Pedals;

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As I talked about in two (2) previous posts (Monday, July 11th and Thursday, July 14th), a guitarists effects pedal board creation is a direct reflection of his or her style of music that they want to be able to mimic and / or create with their own writing skills.  There are an infinite amount of effects pedals that guitarists can chose from for their rig which would allow them to replicate just about any guitarist or song ever written.  Now that is true as long as the guitarist’s skills are up-to-speed and would allow them to copy the artist’s guitar work.
Anyway, what this is leading me up to is my own ‘Effects Pedal Rig’.  If you’ve already read my July 11th and July 14th POST’s referenced above; you’ll know that I have a good system of effects pedals already in place. However, I am always looking to improve upon or tweak my gear to give me the ultimate effects return with minimal amount of confusion on stage when it’s time for the action to take place if you know what I mean.
The next thing I am doing is adding the TONEBONE LOOPBONE
Loopbone-3d-setup-labeled
Loopbone Setup:
Plug your guitar into the input and your effects chains into the LOOP-1 SEND and RECEIVE and LOOP-2 SEND and RECEIVE jacks using standard 1/4" guitar cables. Radial's innovative 'Drag™ control adjusts to correct the pickup loading so your guitar can sound exactly like it does plugged straight into the amp. The always-on tuner out is buffered so it can't interact with the guitar signal going to the amps. The SlingShot™remote switching output uses a standard 1/4" guitar cord to switch channels, reverb on other features on your amp or other devices, such as Radial's Headbone or Cabbone switchers.

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I want to have it arranged so that I have two different types of effects groups controlled by the LOOPBONE because when playing smooth jazz with nylon string, acoustic-electric guitars I want to have one (1) effects loop dedicated for that and then another effects loop dedicated for the crunch of the southern blues or blues rock.  Obviously, I either play my Gibson Les Paul, Fender Stratocaster or Gibson B.B. King Lucille.  I may even try to split off another effects loop just for my Fender Stratocasters because of their unique tone due to their single-coil pick-ups.
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Take control of your pedalboard!
The Loopbone is a compact, easy to use switcher that allows the guitar player to insert, remove and combine two effect pedal chains with footswitch ease. This is particularly advantageous when using older pedals that can add noise and load problems while in the signal chain. As well, the Loopbone incorporates Radial's superb VariBoost™ variable gain power booster for a clean signal increase or a post-effects boost for soloing.
To ensure that the natural tone of your instrument is maintained, no signal degrading op-amps or chips are used – only 100% discreet components and our highly acclaimed Class-A circuit, which combine to achieve Radial's trademark transparency and exceptional dynamics. The Loopbone also features Radial's unique Drag™ control pickup load correction circuit that allows the restoration of a proper 'amplifier' impedance load which is lost when you plug a guitar into effect pedals or other buffered devices. In addition, the Loopbone brings even more to your pedalboard – a separate 'always-on' tuner out circuit that allows 'on-the-fly' tuning without adding noise or load and perhaps the most innovative feature of all, Slingshot™ remote switching. Slingshot allows switching of amp channels or other features, even other devices such as the Radial Headbone or Cabbone switchers, from the Loopbone. Check out 'The Power of Slingshot' for details.

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As I continue to build on my effects pedals, I will share it with all of you in the hopes that I will get your input and comments.  I’m always open to your suggestions; remember that.  I hope you enjoy my blog and get something out of it.  Have a wonderful weekend and remember to give your kids a big hug, they’ll remember it.
Until next time;

Musician By Night
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Thursday, July 14, 2011

Guitar Effects Pedals / Pedalboard . . . Part 2:

 

I received a comment the other day regarding my post “Guitar Effects Pedals/Pedalboard” on Monday, July 11th and the comment was more of a question concerning the pattern in which I arranged my effects pedals on the Pedaltrain pedalboard.  So I decided to create a Part 2 to that post and write all about the specifics surrounding my pedalboard and how I arranged everything.

JanRock Recording Studio 001  

My pedalboard is arranged from right to left starting with the Radial Engineering product:

 

 

 

BIG SHOT i/o True-bypass Instrument Selector

bigshot-io-top-dds-370     bigshot-io-top-labeled


The next pedal after the BIG SHOT is the ERNIE BALL 6160 Volume Pedal and from the TUNER output jack I wired the BOSS TU-3 Guitar Tuner.

Ernie Ball 6160 Volume Pedal     BOSS_TU-3 Tuner 03


After the ERNIE BALL 6160 Volume Pedal comes the APHEX 1404 Punch Factory Optical Compressor, then the APHEX 1401 Guitar Xciter.

APHEX Punch Factory 1404 01  APHEX Guitar Xciter 1401 01

SPECIAL NOTE:  The photo above to the right is of the APHEX Acoustic Xciter in a GREEN effects box.  If you notice in my photo of the complete pedalboard, this pedal is in a RED effects box.  I could not locate a photo of that actual effect so I used this one in its place.


Next pedal in line is the FULLTONE Full-Drive 2  MOSFET (Overdrive/Boost) pedal that is very impressive when used with the APHEX Punch Factory Optical Compressor and Guitar Xciter.  WOW!  what a sound . . . . .

FULLTONE-FD2-MOSFET_01  FULLTONE-FD2-MOSFET_02


The next two pedals are from Radial Engineering / TONEBONE and are extremely impressive.  The first one to follow after the Full-Drive 2 is the TEXAS OVERDRIVE by BONES.  A perfect Texas bluesy overdrive to give me that Billy Gibbons sound from ZZ Top.  Then I follow it up with another favorite, VIENNA CHORUS also from BONES.  It is supplied with 2 different Depths/Rates of Chorus’ to allow the guitarist the option for a faster/thinner type chorus or a slow/deep chorus.

bones-texas-ds-220h  Bones-Texas-slice-310w bones-vienna-chorus-top-ds-310     bones-vienna-chorus--bkg-310-high-slice


The next pedal is the BOSS DD-20 GIGA DELAY that I currently have tied into the BOSS PS-6 Harmonist and the Roland EV5 Expression Pedal.  Once I purchase the BOSS RC-30 Looper and the BOSS BF-3 Flanger, I will install them in between the GIGA DELAY and the PS-6 Harmonist.

BOSS_DD20 01                BOSS_Harmonist 01 

BOSS_DD20 02

                BOSS PS-6 Harmonist        

 

 

        BOSS DD-20  GIGA DELAY


Now, I hope after outlining each of my effects pedals and how they connect (one-by-one) to each other, it clears up any questions that you may have had.  If not, please leave me a comment and I will try to explain further for you.

We are headed out of town for the weekend so I may not be writing a post this weekend but check back anyway because if I can’t sleep, I’ll surely be at it.  Have a wonderful weekend and please always remember to hug your children. 

Bob

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